Windsurfing Magazine

kristin
2009-12-28 11:37:49 | 966 views | 5 Comments

written by Y’shira Karas

Suriname, a country located in the heartbeat of the Amazon, is composed solely of equatorial jungle, although its the great meandering rivers that provide the extra appeal. It also has to be one of the most unspoiled places on Earth. Windsurfing, while potentially spectacular, is largely unknown in Suriname.

Which of course is exactly why one should go there. Anyone can go to places where the conditions are always perfect, but traveling to a place with an unknown breeze is a challenge in itself.  Another bonus is how far you are from the maddening crowds of pretentious, expensive Hawaii.

Launch sites, which are few and far between, involve renting a fairly large African queen style boat that takes you as far as you need to be and then deposits you somewhere in the Suriname River.  Only a start like this brings forth a kind of excitement including a sense of exploration, or being wonderfully lost and free, which encompasses the essence of windsurfing itself … Getting back on the other hand is a whole other story.

Only whitecaps break the surface of the rapid moving Amazonian mud brown water. The water is covered with these little sheep, all running downwind, but never seemingly getting anywhere. I did meet up with two of what must be the only four windsurfers based here in Suriname. They explained how their country appeals to the adventurous traveler, not the timid tourist, and that this is a river not meant for rookies. They also explained that bringing your own windsurfing kit is imperative.

So … What’s the windsurfing like? Well, for a start the winds around Suriname are pretty consistent from December up through March, which is the dry season.  During this dry season, winds are usually between twenty to thirty knots, however, they have often topped thirty-five, making chop-hopping good. Since the winds are solid and steady from shore to shore, surfing here doesn’t feel like river-sailing.

The most fun these guys seemed to have was cruising for miles alone upwind, leaving the dense jungle coast all but a speck in the horizon. Times like these are often accompanied by dolphins, soaring in front and alongside, perhaps to escape the mysterious clatter of a scuttling windsurfer. The temperature during this time varies from twenty to thirty-two degrees centigrade, so surfing is definitely possible in just shorts.

Here, gushing river currents are extremely noteworthy. As the tide ebbs, currents of up to three knots make surfing far more extreme. On the upside, wind against the tide causes good, steep, and occasionally head high chop. Then there are the ’sibi boesi’ or tropical rain storms. They bring exceptionally hard winds just before and during the duration of the storm. Mmm… hardened windsurfers only!

The mentality of the people is diverse in this country. Don’t be afraid of first impressions of whistling fishermen; the Surinamese are the most wonderfully approachable people. There are as few as four hundred thousand of them around and they’re always willing and curious to chat.  Unlike, for instance, Asian countries where you have to acclimatize to their way of life, you can slip into Suriname and hardly notice.

Dare to surrender to the popular credo ‘no spang’ (no stress, relax). Culture here is not hidden by modernization but if you want the jungle adventure you can’t just wander off into the bush. You have to be pretty adventurous to reach these parts.

What you won’t find are the Surf Bars blending the latest vid with the latest techno, nor will you find windsurfing shops.  But then again when it comes to windsurfing, all you really need is wind and water. So head south and join a couple of windsurfers who live fast and sail faster, who blend alcohol, sunsets and travelers together in a cocktail of euphoria every evening before grumbling stomachs stray.

I experienced a classic adventure in South America froom which I’ll return home bringing details of a fantastic new windsurfing destination with stories of piranhas, manana complacency, bribery, political corruption, sex maniacs, nasie and bamie, passionate friendships and needless to say plenty of the active ingredients… wind and waves.