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kristinCONDITIONS
Though it's possible to sail in Margarita year-round, the highest, most consistent winds are January through June. Mornings are usually sailable with good conditions for beginners and slalom sailing with winds in the 15-20 knot range. The wind steadily builds throughout the day and by early afternoon typically blows 20-30 knots, with higher gusts.
Virtually all windsurfing is done in the tiny town of El Yaque on the south side of the island. The beach is a sandy beach about a mile long. Sailors launch directly into sideshore wind. The water is shallow and fairly flat for the first 100-200 yards. Beyond the shallow area are rolling open ocean swells which build to around 3 - 4 feet in the afternoon, many with steep faces making for excellent ramps.
Margarita is only a few degrees north of the equator so it is very warm and the sun is very intense. Daytime temperatures are in the 80s and 90s. The water temperature is extremely warm, so wetsuit sailing is optional, though it is wise to wear lycra to avoid sunburn.
GEAR
Equipment rental is abundant. There are half a dozen major rental outfits in El Yaque. The Vela Center, run by Tom and Kathy Mastbaum, is outstanding, offering a wide selection of new equipment in excellent condition. I've always found the equipment extremely well maintained and plentiful. Checking out gear entails picking a board and sail from the shop, then carrying it 20 yards across the beach to the water.
ACCOMMODATIONS
There are only about 8-10 hotels and a few condos in El Yaque. All the hotels I've used have offered clean, comfortable beds, daily maid service, air conditioning and hot showers. Furnishings aren't opulent, but they are comfortable. Most hotels now offer e-mail access from a computer in their lobby. A new Internet caf in town also offers Internet access.
It's a good idea to avoid drinking the tap water. Bottled water is readily available. It's also advisable to brush your teeth with bottled water. Out of the 72 days I've spent in Margarita, I've only had one sick day, but pack the Immodium just in case.
FOOD
El Yaque offers a good variety of food at reasonable prices. Each of the major hotels has a restaurant. In addition, there are several others offering excellent food. Menus typically include a variety of pasta dishes, a wide selection of fresh seafood, chicken, beef and traditional Venezuelan food. Some hotel restaurants also regularly host theme nights, a buffet of food along a certain theme such as Italian, Mexican, or Brazilian. One price buys all the food and drinks you can handle.
These are a great way to get a lot of great food and rum drinks and meet fellow windsurfers from around the world. You can get a good dinner for less than $10, though $15 - $25 is more common. If you are vegetarian, you shouldn't have any problems as there are plenty of pasta and rice dishes available in most restaurants. If you venture away from the theme nights, you'll find plenty of other restaurants to try. Be sure not to miss a sunset dinner at Hotel Atti.
GETTING THERE
The downside of Margarita is getting there. It's not difficult, it's just time-consuming. From the U.S., one typically flies to Miami. From Miami there are numerous flights to Caracas, where you can transfer and fly into Margarita. An alternative is charter flights from Toronto Canada direct to Margarita on Air Transat.Check with your travel agent for details.
MONEY
The Venezuelan unit of currency is the Bolivar. You can exchange money and travelers checks in the Miami airport, but you'll get a better exchange rate at the Porlamar airport in Margarita. Most of the hotels in El Yaque will exchange money at the front desk. The best exchange rates are at the banks in Porlamar. Credit cards are not yet widely accepted in El Yaque.
A DAY IN THE LIFEB>
Once on Margarita, you can forget about the life you left behind in the U.S. You're in the Caribbean now. Your only worries are selecting your board and sail size during the day, and what to have for dinner at night.
If you're staying in the Beach Hotel, the morning commute means shuffling barefoot downstairs to the breakfast buffet. A bad commute means getting stuck behind a fellow windsurfer limping downstairs. The breakfast buffets offer extremely good coffee, croissants, pastries, fruits, juices, meats, eggs, and pancakes occasionally.You eat breakfast on the veranda overlooking the water, watching the wind blow the palm trees.
If you're looking to improve your waterstarts, stance, or jibes, show up at the beach at 10 am, grab a chair, and enjoy a free and entertaining Vela clinic. These clinics are held on the sand in the shade of a palm tree. As you're sitting there in the clinic, take a minute and think how much better this meeting is than the one your co-workers are sitting in back home. This is what a staff meeting should be like.
When you can't restrain yourself anymore from getting on the water, go slather on the SPF 5000 sunscreen. A lycra rash guard also comes in very handy to keep from getting fried by the sun. Unless it's your first day here, you'll probably need to spend some time taping up the calluses and blisters on your hands and feet. If you're comfortable sailing with gloves, bring them along. If you can't stand gloves, bring the duct tape, bandaids, and New Skin! Same goes for booties.
If you like 'em, bring 'em. If you prefer sailing barefoot, Margarita is fairly accomodating. There's no coral reef here, but there are some grassy reefs in spots which are home to sea urchins. Apart from these occasional reefs, the area is nice and sandy, so barefoot sailing is pretty comfortable. However, be prepared. Sailing barefoot day after day when your feet aren't used to it can wear blisters on your feet and toes and you may also occasionally find an errant sea urchin spine.
So, you're all taped up and ready to do battle. Now you have to figure out what gear to use. For me, at 180 lbs, I would typically sail a 5.7 - 6.5 in the morning with a 90-100 liter board. Now, grab that gear, yell out the board and sail number to the staff, and go rip it up for a couple of hours.
Though the wind is lighter, I love sailing in the morning here. It's so mellow. The morning sunlight and water color, along with the lack of crowds make it an ideal warm-up. The conditions are ideal for just cruising around, tuning out the world, and putting everything on auto-pilot. It's almost a meditative experience. Sail out, mesmerized by the color of the water, jibe, sail in admiring the view of the beach in the foreground, and the mountains in the distance. It's easy to get in a comfortable harmony in these conditions. Everything seems to flow effortlessly.
After sailing for a couple of hours in the morning you'll need to come in. The wind has built, and you've now got to go down at least a full sail size.. Sail in, and put your gear away. Rinse yourself off in the shower by the shop, and walk 20 feet to the beach bar to order a sandwich for lunch. Avoid the cheap beer and rum drinks for now. You've still got more sailing to do.
Try a B.L.T., or if your really hungry, a B.E.L.T.C.H. (bacon, eggs, lettuce, tomato, cheese, ham) sandwich. Don't be too impatient for your food. You're in the Caribbean now. It's a much more relaxed pace. Just order your sandwich and sip your Coke while sitting in the shade soaking in the island feeling, listening to Latin rhythms at the bar.
You're refueled and you're ready to go sail again. It's mid-afternoon, and the wind is blowing stronger now. The loud “thwack” of sails being slammed into the water can be heard as beginners struggle with their waterstarts near shore. The water inside is capping strongly and an occasional 3 foot rol
ler sneaks in. Apply some more sunscreen and chug down another half liter of water. If you're my size, you ought to be able to grab a 4.0 or 5.0 now with an 80 - 85 liter board.
The afternoons are prime time for jumping. The swells have had time to build. For the best swell, work upwind and head out past the shallow areas. By mid-late afternoon you ought to be able to find plenty of steep 4' port ramps. If you're not into jumping yet, work upwind and stay in closer to shore. It's less crowded upwind, but still shallow and comparatively smoother water. This is a great spot to work on jibes and other transitions.
As you enter the water the mid-afternoon sun is glaring bright on the water. You look upwind. It's clear of sailors and there's a nice gust coming. You jump out of the water, both feet landing on the board as you simultaneously sheet in. The gust allows for immediate powered up planing, and as your feet get into the straps you immediately feel at one with the board, rig, wind, and water. You head upwind. The swells have built nicely and you launch off these with glee, savoring the weightless feeling of airtime. You sail like this for a couple of hours, stopping occasionally to rest in the upwind shallows.
When you start noticing fewer and fewer people on the water, look at your watch. It's almost 5:30! Vela wants all their gear in by 5:30. Bring in your gear. The staff will be extra eager to help you, because now it's their time to go play. So, walk over to the beach bar, get a rum drink and sit back and watch the freestyle show. You'll see plenty of looping, spocks, vulcans and crazy moves without names yet.
If you signed up for a dinner buffet, you've got until about 7:00 to get cleaned up. Head to your room for a relaxing hot shower. Put on some shorts and flip-flops and head out to meet your friends. You shouldn't need a coat or sweatshirt at night. The temperature will cool off, but it's usually still quite comfortable in shorts and a T-shirt unless the wind is still blowing. No need to worry about dressing formal here. None of the restaurants in El Yaque will expect you to wear more than shorts and a T-shirt with sandals. Once you're at the restaurant, it's time to relive the day's sailing and enjoy some great food and drinks.
No need to appoint a designated driver; you just have to be able to stumble back to your room and rest up to sail the next day. There's not much nightlife in El Yaque. Most of the restaurants typically close down by 11:00. If you want nightlife, take a cab into Porlamar and you'll find plenty of casinos and nightclubs. After dinner, amble through town in the refreshing cool air. If you still have energy, head downwind to Piratas for some pool, or upwind to Mike's for some competitve table tennis and volleyball. Once you've been here a few days, you'll probably be ready to crash by 11:00. You go to sleep satisfied after another great day of sailing, anticipating yet another great day of sailing tomorrow.
Of all the great windsurfing destinations few accommodate the beginner to the expert as well as Margarita. Beginners can learn to uphaul and waterstart in the shallow waters and side-shore winds without worrying about being blown out to sea. Intermediates can work on their jibes in the relatively flat water close to shore. Advanced sailors can jump in the swell on the outside or practice freestyle moves on the inside.
But perhaps the greatest thing that Margarita offers is a true windsurfing escape. No driving to the beach or restaurants. No hassles, just all the wind, food, and rum you can handle right there within a 5 minute walk from your hotel room.
foot roller sneaks in. Apply some more sunscreen and chug down another half liter of water. If you're my size, you ought to be able to grab a 4.0 or 5.0 now with an 80 - 85 liter board.
The afternoons are prime time for jumping. The swells have had time to build. For the best swell, work upwind and head out past the shallow areas. By mid-late afternoon you ought to be able to find plenty of steep 4' port ramps. If you're not into jumping yet, work upwind and stay in closer to shore. It's less crowded upwind, but still shallow and comparatively smoother water. This is a great spot to work on jibes and other transitions.
As you enter the water the mid-afternoon sun is glaring bright on the water. You look upwind. It's clear of sailors and there's a nice gust coming. You jump out of the water, both feet landing on the board as you simultaneously sheet in. The gust allows for immediate powered up planing, and as your feet get into the straps you immediately feel at one with the board, rig, wind, and water. You head upwind. The swells have built nicely and you launch off these with glee, savoring the weightless feeling of airtime. You sail like this for a couple of hours, stopping occasionally to rest in the upwind shallows.
When you start noticing fewer and fewer people on the water, look at your watch. It's almost 5:30! Vela wants all their gear in by 5:30. Bring in your gear. The staff will be extra eager to help you, because now it's their time to go play. So, walk over to the beach bar, get a rum drink and sit back and watch the freestyle show. You'll see plenty of looping, spocks, vulcans and crazy moves without names yet.
If you signed up for a dinner buffet, you've got until about 7:00 to get cleaned up. Head to your room for a relaxing hot shower. Put on some shorts and flip-flops and head out to meet your friends. You shouldn't need a coat or sweatshirt at night. The temperature will cool off, but it's usually still quite comfortable in shorts and a T-shirt unless the wind is still blowing. No need to worry about dressing formal here. None of the restaurants in El Yaque will expect you to wear more than shorts and a T-shirt with sandals. Once you're at the restaurant, it's time to relive the day's sailing and enjoy some great food and drinks.
No need to appoint a designated driver; you just have to be able to stumble back to your room and rest up to sail the next day. There's not much nightlife in El Yaque. Most of the restaurants typically close down by 11:00. If you want nightlife, take a cab into Porlamar and you'll find plenty of casinos and nightclubs. After dinner, amble through town in the refreshing cool air. If you still have energy, head downwind to Piratas for some pool, or upwind to Mike's for some competitve table tennis and volleyball. Once you've been here a few days, you'll probably be ready to crash by 11:00. You go to sleep satisfied after another great day of sailing, anticipating yet another great day of sailing tomorrow.
Of all the great windsurfing destinations few accommodate the beginner to the expert as well as Margarita. Beginners can learn to uphaul and waterstart in the shallow waters and side-shore winds without worrying about being blown out to sea. Intermediates can work on their jibes in the relatively flat water close to shore. Advanced sailors can jump in the swell on the outside or practice freestyle moves on the inside.
But perhaps the greatest thing that Margarita offers is a true windsurfing escape. No driving to the beach or restaurants. No hassles, just all the wind, food, and rum you can handle right there within a 5 minute walk from your hotel room.
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