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kristin1. Jericocoara, Brazil
You'll fly into Fortaleza (pop. 2 million) on the northern 'Sunshine' coast of Brazil. Because you're at the equator, the year round temperature stays constant around 85º-95ºf. The only thing that changes is the name of the months. The rainy season is Feb-May when huge tidal surges can bring large piles of sand right into downtown Fortalaza.
There are a bunch of cool outdoor restaurants lining the old square (near the new cultural center - Centro Cultural Dragao do Mar), each with it's own music. Be sure to visit Vento em Popa which serves huge meals, cold drinks, and you can linger for hours listening to forro (the local version of salsa music) and watching the world walk by. In Brazil things don't get started much before 10pm, with dinner at midnight. If you're there on Thursday, don't miss 'Crab Night'; try the Tropicalia or any of a dozen other restaurants lining the Praia do Futuro (Future Beach).
If you're feeling rich you can stay at the Beach Park Hotel ($150/night includes breakfast), or the Caesar Park Hotel, a 5-Star hotel right on the water in town (same price). If you didn't bring your own gear, stop by and see Alexandre Coelho, the owner of Wind Club, the only windsurf shop in Forteleza (Ave. Beira Mar 2120, Fortaleza, phone (55) (85) 248-8180 and (55) (85) 9121-6668). The shop sells Gaastra, Fiberspar, Fanatic, and ART, and also rents equipment, most of it on the larger side; good for most of the nearby Fortaleza conditions but a tad large for Jericocoara.
Now you're ready to head west along the endless beaches of the north coast. Car rental in Fortaleza runs around $25/day for a 4 wheel drive. Try Localiza Rent-a Car, Hertz, or Pegasus right at the Fortaleza airport. Then you're off to Jericocoara-the real jewel of the Ceará coast-which the Washington Post named one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world. It lies 320km west of Fortaleza on paved roads before they turn into a brutal, bumpy dirt road for 50km, then a final sand stretch for the last 20km.
For those last 20km from the village of Gijoca you'll need to hire one of the little boys who will appear to help you. For $5 they'll go with you to show you the way through the maze of sand dunes and wooded thickets to Jericocoara. You won't find it without them. In Jericoacoara (pop. 1500) there are several small hotels, a dozen tiny restaurants, and no pavement. All the streets are….. sand. Not dirt, but nice white sand. Most people are barefoot. And happy. The town is located right on the beach which stretches out in waist deep 80 degree water for 300 yards. The best wind is June-January with an average wind speed 25-30 knots. It can blow 40 knots in August/September. A basic room with air conditioning at the Casa do Turismo hotel (300 meters to the beach) is $25/person with breakfast. The smaller but very nice Ibirapuera, or the Capitao Tomaz are about same price. There is limited windsurfing equipment for rent for $50/day ($200/week).
Average sail size is 4.5m to 5.5m with 250-265cm wave boards. A large, crazy truck named Japiraca will take you and your gear anywhere on the beach. For free! There are only radio phones so outside world communication is limited. Which is good. If you get board of windsurfing you can try sandboarding, ride horses, rent dune buggies (for trips to even more isolated beaches like the outrageous Tatajuba Beach, 20km to the west), go sailing on an ancient Jangada fishing boat made from piuba logs, or hike to Pedra Furada, a very cool sea cliff to the east.
No matter where you wander, little boys will magically appear carrying fresh water for you! The night life in Jericoacoara is…. large. Things get moving around midnight after a tasty dinner of Pireo (pronounced peer-oh) fish dish served with farinha (a tapioca type dish made from the mandioca plant). Or try the muqueca de arraia (ray) soup or the sauce version served over re. A lobster dinner runs around $15, a beer costs a buck. Finish off your meal with a large caipirinha - the local beverage delicacy made from smashed limes, sugar, cachaca (a rum-like liquor), and crushed ice. Very potent.
Or perhaps a coco louco - means coconut crazy - made from cachaca and coconut milk. Try the fruit of the caju - cashew fruit -which has a very sweet & unique flavor. For a change of scenery you can zip off to Lagoa de Gijoca (20 km east of Jericoacoara), a beautiful fresh water lagoon which offers perfect conditions for beginning windsurfers. Stay right on the water at Pousada do Paulo for just $25/night. Paulo and his wife Fernanda will make you right at home. They have some limited equipment for rent and the pace is very relaxed.
There's generally a little less wind here than at Jericoacoara. At the palm ringed lagoon named Paraiso (Paradise), there's nothing to worry about: no sharks, no snakes, no hurricanes; just the occasional crazy driver. The only problem with a trip to Brazil is that you may not want to ever come back. Back home, that is. You'll always want to come back to Brazil! For more information contact the Ceará Tourist Center [1-877-412-3272] or visit their web site [www.cearavirtual.com].
2. Langebaan, South Africa
You'll fly into Capetown, one of the most beautiful cities on earth. Since you're about the same latitude as Los Angeles, but in the southern hemisphere, December 21 is the longest day of the year instead of the shortest, which is good since the wind season is November - March. From the airport take a taxi (about $20) directly to your hotel in Capetown (make sure you make reservations in advance; the upscale Pier Place is around $73/night with breakfast; prices generally run $40-$100/night), drop your bags and spend some time exploring. While there are busses going almost everywhere, it's best to rent a car (cost $30- $50 per day + $15/day insurance for a small car with a/c).
There are dozens of small companies who will deliver a car to your door. Bring some cassettes to play unless you like 70's disco radio music-Abba, BeeGees. Check with your own insurance company and/or credit card company to see if your insurance or credit card covers insurance - if so, be sure to get a letter from them and bring several copies with you. Spend at least a day around Capetown-a hike up Table Mountain is mandatory-before heading north. At night try The Rockin' Shamrock (but only if you like dancing on the tables). Other alternatives: The Lounge, Sports Cafe, Shebeen on Bree… actually, just go to Loop Street downtown and you won't run out of entertainment Time to head out.
You can rent good windsurfing equipment near Capetown or wait until you reach Langebaan where there is usually plenty of gear at similar prices. A package with a Tiga board and 3 Pryde sails will run about 700 Rand/week (subject to great changes with the continuously falling value of the Rand against the dollar). Contact Grant Ross [Tel: (+27) (82) 44 99 819 Fax: (+27) (151) 4511] to arrange whatever you need. He drives around in the SA Windsurfari van which is most often seen at Sunset Beach or Blouberg, 20 minutes north of Capetown. Heading north along the coast from Capetown are continuous beaches and good roads with minimal traffic. You'll pass Blouberg, one of the most popular spots near Capetown, twenty minutes later. Large, steep, fast, port tack waves coming in straight from Antarctica will keep your attention. A full, warm wetsuit is mandatory if you stop for a session.
An hour later you'll pass by an incredible, deserted white sand beach called Silverstreamstrand. Stop and take a walk before continuing another half hour to Laangebahn. Rolling into the sleepy town of 3,000 people, head straight to the only windsurfing operation there, the Langebaan Windsurf Center (tel. 011-27-2287-21114 or fax 011-27-2287-21115) run by Antony Teale and his wife, Esti. He has a full range of eq
uipment tailored to the general conditions, and can arrange for lessons and accommodations as well. You'll immediately be struck by the large bay which has a beautiful beach running for miles, dotted with restaurants, wrecked boats, and sun worshipers broiling in the sun.
The south end of the beach leads to the entrance to West Coast National Park and the lagoon it surrounds; this is the real secret to the place. As the tide comes in it brings cold water from the South Atlantic (think Antarctica…). The cold incoming water flows into the shallow 20 mile long lagoon and sits there in the blazing hot African sun for a few hours. Warming up. Way up. By the time it flows back out a few hours later it is bathwater warm. Surprise! If the wind and tide cooperate you'll plan to follow the incoming tide into the lagoon in the morning, sail around for a while, have a picnic along the shore as the water heats up, then follow the flow back out in the afternoon. Fun! The lagoon is quite shallow in places (1'-3') so you have to watch where you go.
The huge variety of wildlife along the shore helps you remember you're in Africa. On a sunny afternoon you'll cross the bay and cruise around the various islands, tack up the coast to find tide and wind driven swells to play on, or simply race back and forth along the beach. The German magazine Surf has been doing their equipment testing at Langebaan for many years, so you know the wind conditions are good. Since the wind doesn't usually come up until the late morning, take advantage of Anthony's rental bikes and go for a cruise into West Coast National Park where you can ride along the lagoon for 20 miles, sneaking into little bays along the shore to spy on all sorts of exotic creatures sunning themselves or grabbing a quick snack of insects and bugs.
Or each other. You can also kayak in the lagoon. The town itself is small and funky, catering to the occasional tourists who venture in off the main road. In the summer season (December - March) it gets quite busy with the various guest houses and hotels filling up, especially on weekends when Capetowners hit the road. A few years ago Kevin and Barbara opened their remodeled Cape Windsurfing Beach House (PO Box 2933, Langebaan 7357 S.A. 02287-22506 phone) right on the beach at the windsurf center.
It's the most convenient place to stay, as well as quite reasonable (350 rand/night double, includes a small kitchen), but they only have six rooms and they fill up fast. With the continuously falling value of the Rand, South Africa in general is a pretty good deal. Alternately you can enjoy Claire's wonderful hospitality at the Langebaan Beach House Bed & Breakfast right on the water (tel/fax: (27) (02287) 22625) just down the road. It has just 2 double rooms and 2 suites starting at R165 including breakfast. When you hit the local market don't forget to buy a big bag of the dried, sweet biscotti-type bread called rusks for a buck. That and a pound of the HUGE grapes will keep you going all day.
You'll want to make reservations for at least one night at Pearly's bar/restaurant just up the beach from the windsurfing center, and better yet, try Die Strandloper which offers a funky beach setting and some of the best seafood I've ever eaten. Sure, South Africa is a long way to go just for windsurfing, but between the friendly people, great conditions, and absolutely unique variety of other things to do and see there, it's gotta make your list.
3. Lago Nahuel Huapi, Argentina, Bariloche
To get to San Carlos de Bariloche-a spectacular year-round resort town at the foothills of the Patagonian Andes in central Argentina-you have two options, none of which is particularly easy or short. But once you get there you'll be glad you made the effort.
Either fly to Buenos Aires and take a bus the 1,000 miles south (bring a loooong book), or fly towife, Esti. He has a full range of equipment tailored to the general conditions, and can arrange for lessons and accommodations as well. You'll immediately be struck by the large bay which has a beautiful beach running for miles, dotted with restaurants, wrecked boats, and sun worshipers broiling in the sun.
The south end of the beach leads to the entrance to West Coast National Park and the lagoon it surrounds; this is the real secret to the place. As the tide comes in it brings cold water from the South Atlantic (think Antarctica…). The cold incoming water flows into the shallow 20 mile long lagoon and sits there in the blazing hot African sun for a few hours. Warming up. Way up. By the time it flows back out a few hours later it is bathwater warm. Surprise! If the wind and tide cooperate you'll plan to follow the incoming tide into the lagoon in the morning, sail around for a while, have a picnic along the shore as the water heats up, then follow the flow back out in the afternoon. Fun! The lagoon is quite shallow in places (1'-3') so you have to watch where you go.
The huge variety of wildlife along the shore helps you remember you're in Africa. On a sunny afternoon you'll cross the bay and cruise around the various islands, tack up the coast to find tide and wind driven swells to play on, or simply race back and forth along the beach. The German magazine Surf has been doing their equipment testing at Langebaan for many years, so you know the wind conditions are good. Since the wind doesn't usually come up until the late morning, take advantage of Anthony's rental bikes and go for a cruise into West Coast National Park where you can ride along the lagoon for 20 miles, sneaking into little bays along the shore to spy on all sorts of exotic creatures sunning themselves or grabbing a quick snack of insects and bugs.
Or each other. You can also kayak in the lagoon. The town itself is small and funky, catering to the occasional tourists who venture in off the main road. In the summer season (December - March) it gets quite busy with the various guest houses and hotels filling up, especially on weekends when Capetowners hit the road. A few years ago Kevin and Barbara opened their remodeled Cape Windsurfing Beach House (PO Box 2933, Langebaan 7357 S.A. 02287-22506 phone) right on the beach at the windsurf center.
It's the most convenient place to stay, as well as quite reasonable (350 rand/night double, includes a small kitchen), but they only have six rooms and they fill up fast. With the continuously falling value of the Rand, South Africa in general is a pretty good deal. Alternately you can enjoy Claire's wonderful hospitality at the Langebaan Beach House Bed & Breakfast right on the water (tel/fax: (27) (02287) 22625) just down the road. It has just 2 double rooms and 2 suites starting at R165 including breakfast. When you hit the local market don't forget to buy a big bag of the dried, sweet biscotti-type bread called rusks for a buck. That and a pound of the HUGE grapes will keep you going all day.
You'll want to make reservations for at least one night at Pearly's bar/restaurant just up the beach from the windsurfing center, and better yet, try Die Strandloper which offers a funky beach setting and some of the best seafood I've ever eaten. Sure, South Africa is a long way to go just for windsurfing, but between the friendly people, great conditions, and absolutely unique variety of other things to do and see there, it's gotta make your list.
3. Lago Nahuel Huapi, Argentina, Bariloche
To get to San Carlos de Bariloche-a spectacular year-round resort town at the foothills of the Patagonian Andes in central Argentina-you have two options, none of which is particularly easy or short. But once you get there you'll be glad you made the effort.
Either fly to Buenos Aires and take a bus the 1,000 miles south (bring a loooong book), or fly to Santiago (Chile), then south to Puerto Monte, and take a 5 hour bus ride (very scenic and ple
asant) east to Bariloche. You'll arrive in a town of 100,000 people which seems much more like a small town of 20,000. There is a distinctly Bavarian look and feel to the town, probably because of the large German influence. But the combination of the spectacular lakes and mountains surrounding the town (including the world renowned Bariloche ski resort) makes the Tyrolian architecture seem right at home. There are even large St. Bernard dogs roaming around in the town square with their owners close at hand to take souvenir photos for all the tourists.
Extending out from the north edge of town is Lago Nahuel Huapi, a majestic fresh water lake (6 x 50 miles). The name means ''Island of the Tiger'', although I can assure you there are no islands containing tigers anywhere in South America. But it is a nice name. Although you're at an altitude of 2,700 feet and there's occasionally snow on the ground in June and July (their winter), the lake never freezes. But it is cold. All year. In the summer (December - March) the water might get up to 65ºf so you'll want your warm wetsuit. Why go half way around the world to sail in cold water? Because it blows. A lot. Local windsurfing guru Jimmy Prudin (mailto:patagonia@hotmail.com) sailed over 300 days last year. In fact, he sailed so much that he bought a piece of property right on the lake and built a huge windsurfing gear storage bunker for himself and his friends so they never have to rig!
Right on top of it is his office with windows looking out on the lake so he's always ready to sail. It's not uncommon to have a month-long stretch with constant 20-25knot winds firing in from the west. Since this brings 6'-8' swells rolling in from the middle of the 2,200' deep lake, get ready for some monster jumps. Since there's no windsurfing gear for rent (yet, although Jimmy is working on it) you'll want to bring your own. Jimmy uses a 7'10'' board with a 4.0m sail much of the time, although he has sails up to 6.5m in his quiver. I've seen 50knot days there when you'd want your 3.0m handy! The nightlife along the water is festive, occasionally rowdy and generally pretty wild due to the average age of the summer crowds (18-25) and the boisterous nature of Argentinian party-animals. Try Grisu or Rocket ByPass, but remember: things don't really get started until after midnight. The dancefloor lightshow in the Cerebro will blow your wind-weary mind.
If you're feeling budget-minded stay at the El Candil (elcandil@bariloche.com.ar) situated right on the waterfront, which is only $40/night/double with breakfast in low season (starts January 15). Or try the more upscale Hotel Edelweiss (fax: 02944-425655) right in town (still only a few blocks from the water). As in any resort town like this, there are dozens of great restaurants. Chow down on the fresh local smoked trout, deer or wild bore at Weiss, then wash it down with the excellent beer they brew themselves.
Most of the local windsurfers launch from Jimmy's house, but there is a great little beach right in town which is the site of several windsurfing competitions each summer. The wind can get much stronger towards the west end of the lake, but you can generally tell what to rig by just looking out from the shore. Perhaps the best part about Bariloche is the small but very enthusiastic group of windsurfers there.
It's like the US ten years ago. There may be only 50 sailors living there, but they all live to sail. You'll be sure to run into ski resort manager Klaus Hardt, ski school owners (and local wildguys) Tommy and Ricky Djapic, and of course Crazy Pablo Pszemiarower (I dare you to try pronouncing that one) who is hard to miss in his 1978 vintage Subaru and 1978 windsurfing gear. If you happen to be in the area (within 2,000 miles), don't miss this spot. The locals are more than happy to show you around!
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