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kristin
Cross Baja with Maui, throw in some California and a dash of Florida, and you've got…
IBIRAQUERA, BRAZIL
You'll fly into Florianopolis (and no, it's not across between Florida and Minneapolis.) from San Paolo.Florianopolis (pop. 400,000) is a fun city on Santa Catarina, a'baja-like' 50km long by 15km wide, lake studded island off theeast coast of Brazil, 700km south of San Paolo. At the airport youcan rent a car for US$25/day at several kiosks.
You just might want to hang around Florianopolisfor a day or so if the wind is blowing. The slalom sailing on Lagoada Conceicao-a delightfully warm 3km x 10km salt-water lake-issuperb. With its sandy, waist-deep bottom extending half wayacross, I can't imagine a better place for learning to windsurf orkiteboard. The Estação do Vento windsurfing center(www.windcenter.com.br)phone 55-48-232-2278) on the east side of the lake offers lessonsand rentals as does Open Wind on the south end (contact ownerAdrien Caradec at 55-48-232-5004). Normal sail size is 5.4m to 6.6m.
Be sure to stop for lunch at Barracuda, alakeside restaurant right near Open Wind. If the waves are up andyou're feeling feisty, head directly for Praia da Barra de Lagoa,Praia Mole, or Praia Joaquina on the East Side of the island.Prepare for a gorgeous beach with port tack wave riding, althoughthey can get somewhat crowded on sunny summer weekends. And in asouth wind Campeche rocks!
From there you're off to Ibiraquera! Cross theonly bridge to the mainland and head south 80km along the coast toIbiraquera, a lake-studded peninsula lined with 20km of perfectbeaches on the South Atlantic. At the north end is Rosa (pronouncedHosa in portugese), a wonderful, white, 2km scallop-shaped beachbordered on either end by high, rocky pine covered jetties which,unfortunately for us windsurfers, also protect it from the wind.
To the south is Luz, again protected from thewind by a high point of land, but just 1km further south startsIbiraquera beach, 5km of perfect sand, waves and girlswearingŠ.. hardly anything. At the far south end isHokipinha (means 'small Hookipa', because it gets big waves). Thebest windsurfing (and kiting) is at the north end of IbiraqueraBeach, just where the Lagoa de Saco (Saco Lagoon) empties into theocean. Be sure not to sail too close to the lee of the small island(Isla do Batuta) just offshore or you'll run out of wind. On a busy summer (December - March) day there might be twenty people out sailing. If you're there during September to Novemberthere's a good chance you'll see some proud mama whales with theirnew calves swimming by the beach on their way south to Antarctica for the 'summer.'
Since Brazil is in the Southern Hemisphere (go ahead and consult yourglobes. we'll wait..) the seasons are switched. The wind season forFlorianopolis/Ibiraquera is from July to November, with good windand waves possible, but more sporadic, for June and December. You'll probably be using your 4.5m to 5.5m sail 90% ofthe time. While the days can be hot and sunny, the water is on thecool side-equivalent to central Baja (in fact it is very similar inboth climate and latitude)-you'll want a shortie or 3/2 with longlegs, and a full suit if you plan to surf.
While you'll go to Ibiraquera for thewaves-wonderful 2' to 6' beach rollers which break on a shallowsand bottom-the flat water sailing for fast slalom cruising orlearning on the lagoons is superb. There are four main lakes(called lagoons because of their eventual channel to the ocean):Lagoa do saco, Lagoa de cima, Lagoa do meio, and Lagoa debaixo.
Most people sail in the largest one (Lagoa debaixo). There is various access for all the lakes, making for goodsailing no matter what the wind direction or velocity. The 'normal' wind pattern starts when there is a storm system to the south inArgentina. As the system moves north the wind begins to blow fromthe northeast for 4-5 days, getting stronger each day. Then it switches, blowing up from the south (think Antartica) for a couple days until the party ends and 1-2 days of rain can be expected. Then the skies clear, it gets hot and dry, and the entire patternbegins again. The beauty of this pattern is that you can be sailing port tack waves for a few days, then switch tostarboard!
When you hit town there are several options foraccommodations. The Pousada RAIA1 [www.raia1.com.br] offers simple roomsright on the water between Ibiraquera beach and Lagoa dosaco.
Or try Pousada Ibiraquera Park www.unetsul.com.br/sefton/ibiraquera,located near RAIA1. With a big grassy lawn, swimming pool, perfect beach and breakfast included, it's a steal at US$30-$50 per night/couple for a private bungalo. Ask for Paulo and tell him Alvaro sent you.
Need to rent gear or take a waterstart lesson? The Escola Catavento [www.cataventowindsurf.com.br] shop located right on the east shore of Lagoa de baixo has all thegoods. While you're near, you might as well contact Escola de Kite& Surf [www.kitesurf.com.br], located inside Pousada Ibiraquera Park, for kiteboard rentals and lessons.
For great eats, try the Margarita Grille at RosaBeach (sample the congrios moqueca - a traditional fish andvegetable stew), Zanoni (near the Mormaii wetsuit factory - ask forthe salmon grilled with butter, lemon and alcaparras), or Tigre Asiatico (great asian food- the Nasi Gorang served in a pineapple half isoutstanding).
When I first went to Brazil in 1995 the Real(pronounced ree-al) was 1:1 with the US dollar which made it easyto convert. Now it's closer to 2.5:1, which makes it a bit harderto convert, but much cheaper! You can get a great dinner, completewith wine (try the local Miolo), salad, appetizer, main course,desert, and thick Brazilian coffee for under US$15. Ibiraquera iscontagious; you may never want to leave. No problem!
You can buy a small lot just off the beach forunder $12,000, and put a two-bedroom / one-bath house on it foranother US$10,000. Don't believe me? Ask my friend Alvaro [alvarowestin@zipmail.com.br]! Where do I sign up?
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