Windsurfing Magazine

kristin
2000-04-01 19:00:00 | 76 views | 0 Comments

Whether it's in print or face to face, I'm forever telling people about the places I travel. And I try to call 'em like I see 'em too. If I have a really good time, I'll recommend the destination, and if my trip is peppered with problems, I'm just as quick at pointing out the pitfalls. But what really gets me are the preconceived notions about some places.



“You're going where? Costa Rica? Why, that's all the way down in Central America!”

Yet these are the same people who won't hesitate to jump on a plane to Maui, which - depending on where you reside in the U.S - can be two or three times as far away.

“But it's Central America,” they'll continue, kind of whispering the words “Central America” like a mother will do when she's talking about something a little off-color or dangerous. “There are jungles and guerrillas and all that third-world stuff.”

Which is

exactly why I'm writing this guide. Yes, Costa Rica is a foreign country, but no, it's not a desperate third-world dump. The place is a blast, and it's no more difficult or scary than flying into any of the popular Caribbean windsurfing destinations.



The Best Way to Start. Tourism is very big in Costa Rica. The government is a stable democracy, the people are generally friendly, and there's no more crime there than in the U.S.

The Costa Rica Tourist Board (ICT) has a great selection of brochures, maps and other publications about tour operators, lodging, history, etc. A good place to start is at their Web site (www.costarica.com). Or you can call 800-343-6332 in the U.S., 506-223-1733 direct to Costa Rica, fax them at 506-223-5452 or write to them: PO Box 777-1000, San Jose, Costa Rica. While this might seem elementary, they really do have a great selection of good information available.

Or you can do what I did: just show up. I flew into San Jose and went to the handy tourist information booth at the airport, where a very knowledgeable, friendly gentleman booked me a nice room in a nearby hotel for a good rate - the Hotel Balmoral, around US$50 per night, plus a US$20 taxi ride into San Jose. The next day I went to the front desk and they found me a rental car (American Car Rental, around US$275 per week), and the car was delivered right to my hotel. From there I drove north up the main highway to Lake Arenal, where I stayed at Norm List's Rock River Lodge, and Norm kept me busy for a week of fun all over the country. Simple!

During the peak tourist season in winter, reservations are recommended for cars and hotels. I rented a car with air conditioning, and four-wheel-drive is always handy for squeaking into secret windsurfing spots on the coast.

The bottom line is: Don't be afraid! Costa Rica has lots to offer and it's easy to get around, with just enough adventure to keep it interesting.



When to Go. The wind season for Costa Rica is winter - early December to mid-March - which makes it a great winter getaway from the sleet of New Hampshire or the deep freeze of Minnesota.



The Best Other Things to Do. Jungle Tours: The Canopy Tour is a must if you're near Lake Arenal. Check out their Web site at www.canopytour.co.cr/, or contact them via e-mail (canopy@sol.racsa.co.cr) or snail mail (Interlink 227, PO Box 025635, Miami, FL 33102-5635). They also have a lodge, restaurant and several other “eco-tour” locations. There are myriad other tours available with a list in the Costa Rica tourism brochure of tour operators. Manuel Antonio National Park, right on the ocean in the southwest corner of the country, iss a must-see if you're going for more than a week.

Mountain Biking: There are literally thousands of miles of great (meaning rough) dirt roads all over Costa Rica, and many times it's faster to be on a bike than in a car! In addition, Norm List has pioneered dozens of single-track rides, all within 10 miles of Lake Arenal, from very easy and fun to long and steep. If you want to do some serious biking, you'll need to take your own bike because there aren't many good bikes available for rent.

Fishing, Diving, White-Water Rafting and Kayaking: The rivers of Costa Rica are legendary for kayaking, and with good reason: warm, fresh water, year-round flow and lots of variety. Same with the big-game fishing and scuba diving. The warm tropical water and great variety of sites (Caribbean on the east coast, Pacific on the west) makes this a must-do destination for serious water hounds. Again, there are myriad tours available with trips from a half-day to several days listed in the Costa Rica tourism brochure of tour operators.



Surf's Up. Before windsurfing was even invented, Costa Rica was a secret surfing mecca. Along the west (Pacific) coast are more than 30 well-known breaks, from Potrero Grande in the north to Punta Burica on the southern tip. Boca Barranca, near Punteranas, and Espadilla, near Quepos, are favorites. The point break at Pavones, one of the longest lefts in the world, requires a south swell, so it only works in the summer. On the Caribbean side the entire coast is filled with great surfing from January to March. The fast break at Manzanillo, Puerto Viejo (with Costa Rica's biggest wave called Salsa Bravo), Black Beach (excellent beach break with no crowd!), and Tamarindo (easy access with hotels, restaurants and surf shops nearby) are favorites. South of Manzanillo, most of the coast is protected by a coral reef.

Like everywhere on earth, when the wind is blowing at any of these surf spots, which it does, the wave sailing can be epic. Playa Naranjo, in the Gulf of Papagayo just west of Liberia (the town, not the country), has outrageous waves and strong summer offshore winds. Same with Tamarindo Bay, but the waves are much smaller. There are small hotels and restaurants all along the coast, although they might be 10 to 20 miles from where the waves are best on any day.



Where to Stay. Lake Arenal: Norm List's Rock River Lodge (fax: 011-506-695-5644) has several small cabins overlooking the lake. The meals are huge and delicious, and the atmosphere decidedly laid-back. Mystica Lodge (fax: 011-506-695-5387), just up the road from Rock River Lodge, has cozy rooms on a beautiful hillside and outstanding Italian food. The Hotel Tilawa (fax: 011-506-695-5766) on the opposite side of the lake has a more developed atmosphere with a large pool and tennis courts.

Salinas Bay: The Three Corners Resort (fax: 011-506-283-8870) on the southern tip of the bay offers a full-scale resort right on the water with 64 rooms and a huge thatched-roof restaurant/bar/common area.